Roero, the Grand Canyon of Piedmont

The devil worked for a night to build the ridge where Cherasco stands.

According to the legend, the devil had to work hard. He excavated the hills of Pocapaglia with a gigantic spade and put the dug-up earth in a basket that was as big as a city. The Devil built the ridge of Cherasco as requested by the local nobles who wanted an unconquerable capital. But the real feat of this endeavor was not Cherasco but the Rocche of Roero, structures considered to come directly from hell.

And it’s hard to not believe this popular myth when walking near the Rocche: these are gorges sinking for hundreds of meters deep into the ground, suddenly cutting through the lush vegetation. Sandstone columns sprouting like giant ochre mushrooms among the vineyards. Cliffs that lead to hidden springs surrounded by dense forests that echo the snuffling of wild animals and the howling of wolf packs from the Apennines.

The Rocche are Piedmont’s Grand Canyon. Spectacular karst formations that run along the Southwest-Northeast axis, from Pocapaglia to Cisterna d’Asti, literally dividing Roero in two. The Rocche of Roero reach their utmost splendor in Pocapaglia, where Beelzebub have dug them himself: here, the gorges are so wide that one can walk through them and be immersed by the uncontaminated nature, admiring the villages and castles built on top of them along the way. But one can marvel at this rocky view from other locations: there’s Monteu Roero that rises on the ridge of the Rocche, or Santo Stefano Roero, whose main square features the remnants of a forest sitting on top of a yellow sandstone crest. Equally monumental is the cliff overlooking Vezza d’Alba or those around Cisterna d’Asti, which tend to have a greyish color due to the presence of silt.

These primeval structures are a perfect spot for trekking, cycling or horseback riding: the Rocche of Roero are connected by a trail of more than 300 km marked by the Ecomuseo delle Rocche, the public organization that promotes this incredible landscape. The S-1, also known as the Gran Sentiero del Roero, is the most exhaustive course: a 40 km trail from Bra to Cisterna d’Asti that crosses centuries-old chestnut woods, stretches of water, dense bushes and breathtaking views.

ROERO AND WINE

The Rocche are also a matter of wine. These cracks in the rocks expose the geological stratifications where the vines take root.

The Rocche’s true nature is revealed by closely observing them: yellow soil, composed of sandy marl, limestone and, in some points, streaks of gypsum. These are loose and light soils rich in minerals: a far cry from the clayey marl present in the nearby Langhe that originated from ancient sea beds.

Roero is about 5 million years younger than the Langhe. Back in the Pliocene, it was a coastal area made up of beaches, palm trees and shallow seas where large fish wallowed. This is proven by the thousand fossils that can be found anywhere while digging the soil of Roero: shells, fish and phyllites, or fossilized leaves of ancient plants, an indication of the high temperatures and the rich tropical vegetation that were once present.

This distinct place is where typical Roero varieties reveal their delicate nature. If clay gives structure, then the loose sands and gypsum of Roero yield elegant and light wines that shine for their aromas and pleasant character, rather than their structure or power.

ROERO ARNEIS DOCG DUCHESSA LIA

Roero Arneis Docg Duchessa Lia comes from this uncontaminated nature and sandy soil. Harvested for the very first time in 2020, this label has just recently been launched in the market. Its wonderful straw yellow color with flecks of gold echoes the bright and frisky air of its hills, its fresh and lively landscape. A dry, fragrant and well-balanced white wine that combines hints of fresh fruit with floral notes and reveal the typical and pleasant almond aftertaste.

Do you want to know more about the Rocche of Roero and their most famous wine?

DISCOVER ROERO ARNEIS AND ITS PAIRINGS

IL ROERO ARNEIS DOCG DUCHESSA LIA

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